Many thanks to Ferran Centelles for taking the time to review our wines. Wine is our passion and our goal is to make wines that people like to drink so it’s an honour and pleasure to read Ferran’s words and receive such great reviews.
You can read an excerpt from the article here:
“El Escoces Volante is the project of the Scottish (but already ‘adopted’ in Spain) Norrel Robertson MW. He is one of the best and most admired winemakers in the country. It was not the first time we talked about Norrel’s project and it won’t be the last, I’m sure. He has been producing his own wines in Spain for 15 years.
In the late 1990s Norrel decided to pursue his career in winemaking and worked vintages in Chianti in Italy (Tenuta di Arceno), Portugal (Esporão and Quinta de la Rosa), Australia (Nepenthe), France (Dom du Clos Roussely) and Chile (Laroche).
In 2003 he moved to Spain as a flying winemaker for the UK-based International Wine Services and quickly fell in love with the old Garnacha vineyards in the area of Calatayud. Soon after, he decided to start making his own wines in the region. He also leads and consults on projects in Murcia, Valencia and Galicia.
Currently, Norrel owns 21 hectares (52 acres) of old-vine Garnacha around the villages of Villarroya de la Sierra and Cervera de la Cañada in Calatayud. Most of his vineyards range from 45 to 110 years old but he has also encouraged some new plantings too.”
Manda Huevos Carramaninas 2018 Vino de España 17
Pure nose, I see a lot of care and precision. The notes of lees are incredibly homogenised with the ripe sweet white fruit, smoke and crème pâtissière. On the palate, it is rounded with an exquisite, complex and creamy texture. The lees are very well handled. Lively acidity supports the richness of the wine. Long finish.
El Mondongo 2018 Vino de España 17
I am surprised again by the precision on the level of ripeness of the fruit – al dente! Cherry, strawberry, a citrus note that suits the nose very well. Floral, white pepper, and a hint of balsamic that makes me discern the oak. Exquisitely built palate, nervous acidity, juicy and fluid texture. Less massive than the previous vintage. You all know that I like the delicate face of Garnacha, and this is no exception.
Es Lo Que Hay Viñas Viejas 2018 Vino de España 17.5
Black rather than red fruits, super-clean with a graphite and truffle note. On the palate, the concept remains about smoothness. Mouth-watering acidity, almost salty. A less-extracted vintage. It is a pure and sincere wine with a magical fruity soul, a Garnacha that totally fills your palate with fresh fruit.
Manda Huevos Caña Andrea 2017 Vino de España 17
Very well-defined and sharp red fruit, mineral notes of pencil lead. It has a lovely and subtle floral touch. I instantaneously realise this is a refined wine. On the palate, it is ample but flows vertically with depth. Crystalline winemaking, copyright of the house.
Manga del Brujo 2017 Calatayud 16
Dark ripe fruit such as plums and blackberries, toast and sweet spices on the nose. Opulent and powerful on the palate, firm tannins, however, the 15% alcohol is very well managed and integrated, all combined by a nervous acidity. A touch of bitterness on the aftertaste. It is a wine with energy and depth.
Dos Dedos de Frente 2018 Vino de España 18
Spectacular and intense dark fruit on the nose! Blackcurrant, blackberries, cassis, violets, smoke and minerality. On the palate, it is rich and deep but not massive. It has mouth-watering acidity, ripe tannins, and elegant oak integration. I find this vintage more balanced than previous ones. The wine has precise fruit expression. 2018 has been the greatest year for this wine.
En sus Trece 2018 Vino de España 17
As usual, this Garnacha persists en sus trece (Spanish expression meaning ‘stand your ground’), and keeps showing the soul of this grape. It is ripe and has dark fruit, plums, black cherries and cedar aromas. A fruit bomb! Juicy, with tense acidity. Lovely tannin management, pleasantly balanced. Perhaps, in Norrel’s wines, this is the one in which I see all his authenticity.
Papa Luna 2017 Calatayud 15.5
Ripe black fruit, hints of cherry liqueur and earthy character. On the palate, it is full of black-fruit flavours. It is a dense wine, showing creamy tannins. It has a yummy texture. Easy-drinking Garnacha.
El Cismático 2018 Vino de España 18
This is a lively nose! The aromas evolve from elegant ripe red fruits to very subtle and distinguishing mountain herbs. On the palate, is a wonderful combination of concentration and energy, complexity and smoothness. A deep wine with a silky texture. Beautiful wine! Juicy and deep Garnacha at its best!
Read the full article in jancisrobinson.com here >> (Subscription necessary)